Pool water chemistry involves maintaining proper levels of chlorine (1-3ppm based on CYA), pH (7.4-7.6), alkalinity (60-120ppm), and calcium hardness (250-350ppm for plaster). Regular testing with quality kits and proper chemical dosing ensures safe, clear water.
The SLAM method (Shock Level And Maintain) clears green pools by maintaining high chlorine levels continuously until water clears. Use liquid chlorine to reach shock level based on CYA, maintain 24/7 until overnight chlorine loss is 1ppm or less.
Pool opening involves removing winter covers, inspecting equipment, reconnecting plumbing, and balancing water chemistry. Start with equipment inspection, fill and reconnect systems, then shock and balance chemicals before swimming.
Yes, most pool owners need pH Up and pH Down chemicals to maintain the ideal pH range of 7.4-7.6, but you may not need both products depending on your water's natural tendencies.
Salt water pools use electrolysis to generate chlorine from dissolved salt, requiring proper water chemistry balance including pH, alkalinity, and CYA levels. They still need regular maintenance and chemical adjustments despite producing their own chlorine.
Most pools don't need algaecide if you maintain proper chlorine levels (2-5ppm FC) and adequate CYA (30-50ppm). Algaecide is mainly useful for prevention during high-risk periods or as backup insurance, not for treating active algae blooms.
Yes, you can use pool pH increaser in your spa since both use sodium carbonate (soda ash) as the active ingredient. However, you'll need to adjust dosing for your spa's smaller volume and retest after 30 minutes.
To raise pool pH, add sodium carbonate (soda ash) for quick increases or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) for gradual increases. Test first, calculate dosage based on pool size, and add chemicals slowly with circulation running.
Pool chemical shelf life varies dramatically: liquid chlorine lasts 2-5 years, granular chlorine 2-3 years, while pH adjusters and alkalinity increasers can last indefinitely when stored properly.
A properly winterized pool can stay closed for 6-8 months safely, while emergency closures should be limited to 2-4 weeks maximum. Beyond these timeframes, water chemistry deterioration and equipment damage risks increase significantly.
Yes, you can shock your pool after adding calcium hardness increaser. Wait 2-4 hours for the calcium to fully circulate and dissolve before adding shock to prevent chemical interactions and ensure even distribution.
Yes, you can shock your pool two days in a row if your chlorine levels haven't reached the proper shock level or if you're treating algae. However, test your water first to avoid over-chlorination.
To lower pool pH, add muriatic acid (liquid) or sodium bisulfate (dry acid) to your pool water. Use 1 quart of muriatic acid per 10,000 gallons to lower pH by 0.2 units, testing and adjusting gradually.
Pool algae itself cannot kill you, but certain types like blue-green algae can cause serious illness, and algae creates slippery, dangerous swimming conditions that increase drowning risk.
Pool covers are highly effective at preventing algae by blocking sunlight and reducing debris, but they don't eliminate the need for proper chemical balance and filtration.
