Pool water chemistry involves maintaining proper levels of chlorine (1-3ppm based on CYA), pH (7.4-7.6), alkalinity (60-120ppm), and calcium hardness (250-350ppm for plaster). Regular testing with quality kits and proper chemical dosing ensures safe, clear water.
The SLAM method (Shock Level And Maintain) clears green pools by maintaining high chlorine levels continuously until water clears. Use liquid chlorine to reach shock level based on CYA, maintain 24/7 until overnight chlorine loss is 1ppm or less.
Pool filters come in three main types: sand filters (low maintenance, 5-7 year lifespan), cartridge filters (easy cleaning, 1-2 year replacement), and DE filters (finest filtration, requires backwashing every 4-6 weeks).
Pool opening involves removing winter covers, inspecting equipment, reconnecting plumbing, and balancing water chemistry. Start with equipment inspection, fill and reconnect systems, then shock and balance chemicals before swimming.
Yes, most pool owners need pH Up and pH Down chemicals to maintain the ideal pH range of 7.4-7.6, but you may not need both products depending on your water's natural tendencies.
Salt water pools use electrolysis to generate chlorine from dissolved salt, requiring proper water chemistry balance including pH, alkalinity, and CYA levels. They still need regular maintenance and chemical adjustments despite producing their own chlorine.
Yes, you can use pool pH increaser in your spa since both use sodium carbonate (soda ash) as the active ingredient. However, you'll need to adjust dosing for your spa's smaller volume and retest after 30 minutes.
Whether you need to winterize your pool depends on your climate zone. Areas with freezing temperatures require full winterization, while warmer regions need only reduced maintenance and chemical adjustments.
To raise pool pH, add sodium carbonate (soda ash) for quick increases or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) for gradual increases. Test first, calculate dosage based on pool size, and add chemicals slowly with circulation running.
Pool salt cells use electrolysis to convert dissolved salt (sodium chloride) into chlorine gas and sodium hydroxide. The chlorine sanitizes your pool while the sodium hydroxide raises pH, creating a continuous chlorination cycle.
Yes, salt water pools do freeze, but at slightly lower temperatures than fresh water (around 28-32°F vs 32°F). The salt content provides minimal freeze protection, so proper winterization is still essential.
Most salt water pool cells can be rebuilt by replacing the titanium plates and internal hardware, typically costing 50-70% less than a new cell. However, rebuilding is only worthwhile if the cell housing is intact and you have technical skills.
Pool chemical shelf life varies dramatically: liquid chlorine lasts 2-5 years, granular chlorine 2-3 years, while pH adjusters and alkalinity increasers can last indefinitely when stored properly.
Add sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to increase pool alkalinity - use 1.5 lbs per 10,000 gallons to raise alkalinity by 10 ppm. Test first, add slowly, and retest after 6 hours.
You can vacuum your pool after adding most chemicals, but timing matters. Wait 15-30 minutes for liquid chemicals to circulate, and 2-4 hours for granular chemicals to fully dissolve before vacuuming.
