Pool water chemistry involves maintaining proper levels of chlorine (1-3ppm based on CYA), pH (7.4-7.6), alkalinity (60-120ppm), and calcium hardness (250-350ppm for plaster). Regular testing with quality kits and proper chemical dosing ensures safe, clear water.
Most Las Vegas pools operate year-round due to the desert climate, with peak season from May through October. Many commercial pools and resorts stay open 24/7 during peak months, while residential pools typically benefit from heating systems November through March.
Yes, most pool owners need pH Up and pH Down chemicals to maintain the ideal pH range of 7.4-7.6, but you may not need both products depending on your water's natural tendencies.
Pool heaters can fail due to electrical issues, gas problems, water flow restrictions, or component failures. Most common issues like pilot light problems, low water flow, and thermostat malfunctions can be diagnosed and often fixed without professional help.
Salt water pools use electrolysis to generate chlorine from dissolved salt, requiring proper water chemistry balance including pH, alkalinity, and CYA levels. They still need regular maintenance and chemical adjustments despite producing their own chlorine.
Most pools don't need algaecide if you maintain proper chlorine levels (2-5ppm FC) and adequate CYA (30-50ppm). Algaecide is mainly useful for prevention during high-risk periods or as backup insurance, not for treating active algae blooms.
Yes, you can use pool pH increaser in your spa since both use sodium carbonate (soda ash) as the active ingredient. However, you'll need to adjust dosing for your spa's smaller volume and retest after 30 minutes.
To raise pool pH, add sodium carbonate (soda ash) for quick increases or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) for gradual increases. Test first, calculate dosage based on pool size, and add chemicals slowly with circulation running.
Add sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to increase pool alkalinity - use 1.5 lbs per 10,000 gallons to raise alkalinity by 10 ppm. Test first, add slowly, and retest after 6 hours.
Yes, green pool water can make you sick with infections, gastrointestinal illness, and respiratory problems. The algae indicates dangerous bacteria and parasites are present, making swimming unsafe until properly treated.
You can vacuum your pool after adding most chemicals, but timing matters. Wait 15-30 minutes for liquid chemicals to circulate, and 2-4 hours for granular chemicals to fully dissolve before vacuuming.
Pool filter lifespan depends on the type: cartridge filters last 1-2 years, sand filters last 5-7 years, and DE filters last 8-10 years. Replace when cleaning becomes ineffective or damage occurs.
Pool algae can cause skin rashes, irritation, and other health issues through direct contact or by creating conditions that harbor harmful bacteria. The key is eliminating algae through proper SLAM treatment and maintaining balanced water chemistry.
Most pool owners do need a pool vacuum for thorough cleaning, but the type depends on your pool size, debris load, and maintenance preferences. Manual vacuums work for small pools with light debris, while automatic cleaners are essential for larger pools or heavy leaf loads.
Clear cloudy pool water by testing and balancing your chemistry first, then shock with liquid chlorine to 3x your CYA level and run your filter 24/7 until the water clears completely.
