Check if your salt cell is working by inspecting for visible bubbles during operation, testing chlorine output levels, and verifying proper salt levels (3000-4000ppm). A functioning cell should produce steady bubbles and maintain chlorine levels without supplemental shocking.
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A properly functioning salt cell will produce visible bubbles when operating, maintain consistent free chlorine levels between 1-3ppm, and keep your pool water clear without requiring frequent manual chlorine additions. If you're constantly adding liquid chlorine or experiencing persistent algae growth despite proper salt levels, your cell may not be working effectively.
The most immediate way to check salt cell function is the bubble test. With your pool pump running and salt system operating, remove the cell from its housing and hold it in the water near a return jet. A working cell will produce steady streams of small bubbles from the metal plates within 30-60 seconds. These bubbles indicate the electrolytic process is occurring, converting salt into chlorine.
If you see no bubbles after 2-3 minutes, or only sporadic bubbling, your cell isn't generating chlorine effectively. Heavy bubbling that looks like boiling water typically indicates the cell is working too hard, possibly due to calcium buildup or incorrect salt levels.
Turn off power and remove the cell for visual inspection. Look for:
Heavy calcium scaling appears as thick white crusty deposits that block water flow between plates. This prevents proper chlorine generation and requires acid cleaning.
Test your pool's free chlorine level using a reliable test kit like the Taylor K-2006C. Record the reading, then run your salt system for 4-6 hours without any pool usage. Retest the chlorine level.
A working salt cell should increase free chlorine by 1-3ppm during this test period, depending on your system's output setting and pool size. If chlorine levels remain unchanged or decrease, your cell isn't producing adequate chlorine.
Most salt systems require 3000-4000ppm salt concentration to function properly. Test salt levels using digital salt test strips or a salt test kit. Low salt levels (below 3000ppm) will prevent proper chlorine generation, while excessive salt (above 4500ppm) can damage equipment and create harsh water conditions.
If your control unit displays a low salt error but your test kit shows adequate levels, the cell's sensor may be failing or require cleaning.
Check your salt system's control panel for error codes or warning lights. Common indicators include:
Consult your system's manual for specific error code meanings, as they vary between manufacturers like Hayward, Pentair, and Jandy.
For advanced troubleshooting, use a clamp-on ammeter to measure electrical current flowing to the cell. A functioning cell typically draws 3-7 amps depending on the model and output setting. Zero amperage indicates electrical failure, while excessive amperage suggests internal cell damage or scaling issues.
Monitor free chlorine levels 2-3 times per week for several weeks. A properly working salt cell should maintain consistent chlorine levels between 1-3ppm without manual chlorine additions. Target higher levels (2-4ppm) if your CYA is elevated above 50ppm, following the FC/CYA relationship.
Document any patterns like dropping chlorine levels mid-week or inability to maintain levels during heavy pool usage. This data helps identify whether the cell is losing capacity or if system settings need adjustment.
Salt cells generate less chlorine in cooler water temperatures (below 60°F) and may shut down completely below 50°F. This is normal operation, not cell failure. However, if chlorine production drops significantly during warm weather (above 75°F), investigate cell condition and salt levels.
The most common issue affecting salt cell performance is calcium scaling. Clean cells every 2-3 months using a 10:1 water-to-muriatic acid solution. Always add acid to water, never water to acid, and wear protective equipment. Soak the cell for 10-15 minutes until bubbling stops, then rinse thoroughly.
Add pool salt to achieve 3200-3500ppm for optimal performance. For a 20,000-gallon pool, each 40-pound bag of salt raises levels by approximately 240ppm. Test and adjust gradually, as it takes 24 hours for salt to fully dissolve and distribute.
Salt cells have finite lifespans, typically 3-5 years or 10,000 operating hours. Signs of cell failure include inability to generate adequate chlorine despite proper salt levels and clean plates, visible plate deterioration, or persistent electrical errors.
Extend salt cell life by maintaining proper water balance: pH 7.2-7.6, total alkalinity 60-80ppm for salt water pools, and CYA 70-80ppm. Higher pH levels accelerate calcium scaling, while low pH promotes corrosion.
Run your pool pump and salt system 8-12 hours daily during swimming season, adjusting output settings based on usage and weather. Clean the cell every 2-3 months or when calcium buildup becomes visible.
Consider installing a sacrificial zinc anode to reduce galvanic corrosion in your pool equipment, which can extend salt cell lifespan significantly.
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