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Why Pool Alkalinity Gets Low: 7 Common Causes & Solutions

Water Chemistry Easy 30 minutes 15 views

What causes pool alkalinity to drop? Safe for kids to swim?

I've been testing our pool water regularly and noticed the alkalinity keeps dropping to low levels. My kids swim in it almost daily during summer, so I'm really concerned about whether this is safe for them.

I'm trying to figure out what's causing this so I can fix it properly. We've had a lot of rain lately, and I've been shocking the pool more often because of increased usage. Could these things be making the alkalinity drop? What are the main reasons pool alkalinity gets low, and should I keep the kids out until I get it balanced again?

Dear Adam E.,

Quick Answer

Pool alkalinity typically drops due to heavy rainfall, organic contamination, frequent chlorine shocking, and acidic water sources. The most common culprit is dilution from rainwater, which has near-zero alkalinity.

Tools & Supplies Needed

Taylor K-2006C test kit sodium bicarbonate pool skimmer

Find on Amazon: Taylor K-2006C Test Kit , Sodium Bicarbonate Pool Grade , Pool Skimmer Net

Quick Answer: Fix Low Alkalinity First, Then Investigate

When your total alkalinity drops below 80 ppm, add sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) immediately at 1.5 lbs per 10,000 gallons to raise it by 10 ppm. Test after 6 hours and adjust as needed to reach 80-120 ppm for regular pools or 60-80 ppm for salt water generators. Once corrected, identify what caused the drop to prevent future issues.

The 7 Main Causes of Low Pool Alkalinity

1. Heavy Rainfall (Most Common Cause)

Rainwater has virtually zero alkalinity and a pH around 5.6, making it acidic. Just 2-3 inches of rain can dramatically dilute your pool's alkalinity. A 20,000-gallon pool receiving 3 inches of rain adds roughly 3,750 gallons of zero-alkalinity water, potentially dropping your total alkalinity from 100 ppm to 75 ppm overnight.

This is why you should always test your water chemistry within 24 hours after any significant rainfall, especially during storm seasons.

2. Organic Contamination and Decomposition

When leaves, grass clippings, pollen, and other organic matter decompose in your pool, they release acids that consume alkalinity. The bacterial breakdown process produces carbonic acid and other organic acids that directly attack your alkalinity buffer.

Pools surrounded by trees or experiencing heavy pollen seasons are particularly susceptible. Even a moderate amount of leaf debris can drop alkalinity by 20-30 ppm over several days.

3. Frequent Chlorine Shocking

Many pool owners don't realize that liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) has a pH around 13, but cal-hypo shock and dichlor shock are acidic. Calcium hypochlorite shock has a pH around 11.8 but becomes acidic when it reacts with water. Dichlor shock is even more acidic.

If you're shocking weekly with cal-hypo or using dichlor regularly, you're gradually consuming your alkalinity. This is why the SLAM method recommends liquid chlorine - it's less harsh on your alkalinity levels.

4. Acidic Fill Water

Your local water supply might have low alkalinity to begin with. Well water is often acidic due to dissolved carbon dioxide and organic acids from soil. Some municipal water supplies also have low alkalinity, especially if they use reverse osmosis treatment.

Test your fill water separately to establish a baseline. If your tap water has alkalinity below 50 ppm, you'll need to boost it every time you add significant amounts of fresh water.

5. Muriatic Acid Overdose

Adding too much muriatic acid to lower pH will consume alkalinity faster than intended. The relationship between pH and alkalinity means you can't adjust one without affecting the other.

This commonly happens when pool owners see high pH readings and aggressively add acid without considering the alkalinity impact. Always test both parameters and add acid gradually - no more than 1 quart per 20,000 gallons at a time.

6. CO2 Injection Systems

If you use a CO2 system to control pH, it works by forming carbonic acid in the water. While more gentle than muriatic acid, continuous CO2 injection will gradually lower alkalinity over time.

Monitor alkalinity weekly if you use CO2, and supplement with sodium bicarbonate as needed to maintain proper buffering capacity.

7. Swimmer Load and Body Oils

Heavy bather loads introduce acids through sweat, cosmetics, and body oils. While this typically requires dozens of swimmers over several days to significantly impact alkalinity, busy pool parties or swim lessons can contribute to alkalinity loss.

Sunscreen and cosmetics are particularly problematic because they contain fatty acids that break down into smaller organic acids.

How to Test and Confirm Low Alkalinity

Use a reliable test kit like the Taylor K-2006C or TF-100, which measure total alkalinity through acid titration. Digital test strips are notoriously inaccurate for alkalinity readings.

Test at least twice weekly during swimming season, and always test 24 hours after rainfall, shocking, or adding chemicals. Total alkalinity should read 80-120 ppm for traditional chlorine pools, or 60-80 ppm if you have a salt water generator.

Prevention Strategies

Cover your pool during storms when possible to minimize rainwater dilution. Remove organic debris promptly - skim daily and vacuum weekly. When shocking, use liquid chlorine instead of cal-hypo when feasible.

If your fill water has chronically low alkalinity, consider adding sodium bicarbonate to fresh water before it enters the pool. For every 1,000 gallons of low-alkalinity fill water, pre-treat with 2 lbs of baking soda.

Safety Warning: Always add chemicals with the pump running and never mix different chemicals together. Wait at least 6 hours between adding alkalinity increaser and other chemicals, especially acid.

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For informational purposes only. Information may not be complete or accurate. Always verify before use. For complex pool issues, consult a qualified pool professional. See our Terms of Service.