Are Borates Actually Worth Adding to My Pool?

What Borates Actually Do (The Short Version)

Borates — typically maintained at around 30–50 ppm in pool water — act as a mild pH buffer, a water-feel enhancer, and a low-level algae inhibitor. They won't replace your sanitizer or your regular chemistry work, but they do make that work a bit easier. That sharp, almost chemical smell after shocking is primarily caused by chloramines — combined chlorine compounds that form when free chlorine reacts with nitrogen-containing compounds like sweat and body care products. While pH doesn't directly cause chloramine formation, keeping pH stable helps your free chlorine stay more effective, which can reduce the conditions that allow chloramines to accumulate. Borates contribute indirectly by helping hold pH in the optimal range for chlorine efficiency.

Worth noting: borates are not a sanitizer. They don't replace chlorine. But because they help hold pH steadier, your chlorine stays more effective for longer — and that's a real, measurable benefit. For a full picture of how pH and chlorine interact, the pool water chemistry guide is worth reading before you add anything new to your water.

Your Three Main Approaches — Compared

Option 1: Skip Borates Entirely

What it looks like: You manage pH and chlorine through standard chemistry — no borates added. Perfectly valid, and millions of pools run this way without issue.

• Pros: Fewer chemicals to track, lower upfront cost, no initial dosing process required
• Cons: pH tends to drift upward more freely (especially with aeration, waterfalls, or SWGs), which means more frequent acid additions; slightly higher chlorine demand; water can feel harsher to sensitive skin and eyes

If your pool is already well-balanced and you're not fighting constant pH drift or irritated eyes, this option is perfectly fine. You're not missing anything critical — just a convenience layer.

Option 2: Add Borates with Boric Acid (The Precise Method)

What it looks like: You purchase pure boric acid powder (sold as a pool product or in bulk at some retailers) and dose your pool to reach a target of around 30–50 ppm. Because boric acid is mildly acidic, it can lower pH as you add it — the extent depends on your starting pH and dose size. You may need to raise pH afterward using soda ash (sodium carbonate) — note this is different from sodium bicarbonate (baking soda / alkalinity increaser), which is not the right tool here.

• Pros: Most cost-effective per pound, especially for larger pools; clean and predictable chemistry; widely used in the TFP (Trouble Free Pool) community
• Cons: Requires more careful dosing and pH management during the initial addition; boric acid can be harder to find locally (though readily available online); needs a good test kit to verify your boron level

I'd suggest using a reliable reagent-based test kit — not test strips — if you go this route. Strips aren't accurate enough to dial in your boron levels confidently.

Option 3: Use a Pre-Made Borate Product (The Simpler Path)

What it looks like: Products like Proteam Supreme, Gentle Swim, or similar borate-based pool treatments are premixed and often pH-neutral, making the addition process more forgiving. You follow the product's label directions for your pool volume.

• Pros: Easier to add without causing pH disruption; no chemistry calculations required; good for pool owners who want simplicity over precision
• Cons: Significantly more expensive per dose than raw boric acid; you're paying for convenience; you'll still want a test kit to verify final borate levels

If you're newer to pool chemistry or just want to try borates without a learning curve, this is a reasonable starting point.

The Real-World Difference You'll Notice

Many pool owners report that after adding borates, water takes on a noticeably silkier feel — softer on skin and eyes, less of that harsh edge. The pH also tends to stay put longer between adjustments, which is especially noticeable for saltwater pool owners (SWGs naturally drive pH upward). And while borates alone won't stop an algae bloom, they do create an environment where algae struggles to take hold, acting as a mild secondary line of defense alongside your chlorine.

That said, if your current chlorine levels are properly calibrated to your CYA level and your pH is staying in range without much effort, you might not notice a dramatic transformation. Borates are a refinement, not a rescue.

One Caution: Pets and Plants

Borates come from boric acid, which is mildly toxic if swallowed in quantity. At 30–50 ppm the water is perfectly fine for swimming, but don’t let dogs or other pets habitually drink from a borated pool, and avoid using borated backwash or splash-out water on garden beds — boron is great for your pool but is harsh on many plants. It’s a small, manageable trade-off, just one worth knowing before you commit.

What You'll Need to Get Started

• A reliable pool volume estimate — use the pool volume calculator if you're not sure
• Boric acid powder (for the DIY method) or a commercial borate product
• A reagent-based test kit with a borate add-on — such as the Taylor K-2006 with the borate add-on kit, or the TF-100 with a separately purchased borate test. Both kits require the borate component to be added; neither includes it by default.
• pH test and pH adjuster — boric acid additions may require pH correction afterward
• A pool brush to help the product dissolve and circulate

The Bottom Line: Is It Worth It?

For most pool owners, borates are a worthwhile addition that pays for itself in reduced pH adjustment frequency and a noticeably better swim experience. If the sharp post-shock smell is bothering you, that alone is a decent reason to try it — a more stable pH environment goes a long way toward reducing the conditions that allow chloramines to build up. The boric acid method offers the best value; the premixed product approach offers the most convenience. Borates persist well and don't get consumed the way chlorine does, but water lost to splash-out, backwashing, or rain dilution will gradually reduce borate levels. It's worth testing borate concentration once or twice a season — and after any significant water replacement — to confirm levels are still in range.